Cat introductions.

Cat introductions or inter cat aggression are one of the top reasons cat parents seek the help of a cat behavior specialist. Domestic cats are intensely territorial beings. The subject of introducing two cats brings up a variety of well-meant advice:

-       Just put them in a room together and the cats will work it out.

-       Let the cats eat close to each other, and they will become friends.

-       Move their food bowls closer each day.

-       Plug in pheromones and give the cats calming drops.

These tips are in most cases are a recipe for disaster. It is a tense situation for owners to observe. Once the cats have started to fight with each other, or show signs of discomfort like hissing, growling or swatting, we must go back to square one.

Bringing a new cat home can trigger the territorial panic switch in your resident cat. Imagine you come home and there is a stranger sitting in your favorite recliner?

Every case is different, there is no generic recipe for success. But a systematic and science backed approach will give your cats the best chance for a smooth integration.

 Some common mistakes I encounter on a consistent basis:

1.Humans are rushing the intro process.

We humans are one impatient species. This process is not about us, it is about the cats in your care. Go slow and even slower if you see any adverse reactions like hissing, swatting or reactive body language. Let the cats decide the pace. Be in control but relax. Don’t hesitate to go back if you feel uncomfortable.

2. Learn cat body language.

Learn cat body language, it will help you access the comfort level of your cat. Cat body language is subtle. There is a wonderful book with illustrations from Lili Chin called “Kitty Language”. I highly recommend reading it.

3. Expectations.

There is a wide range of cat relationships between bonded buddies and enemies. Not all cats will become friends. We usually walk into a situation when both cats are on the spectrum of avoidance, hissing, swatting, fighting

Sometimes the goal is a peaceful co-existence and timesharing in the same house. To increase the chances of getting to a peaceful timesharing situation I always discuss resources at the beginning of each introduction. Every cat needs to have unrestricted and unlimited access to food, water, litter box, vertical and horizontal hiding space. If there is already tension about access to the litterbox or food, how can we expect the two cats to be friends?

Enemies – swatting, chasing, fighting.

Friends – Grooming, play, resting, tails up.

Roommates – is sometimes the goal but can be a delicate situation. Self-segregation, displacement, blocking resources.

4. Cats and math’s - classical and operant conditioning

Most cats like treats. Feeding both cats treats on each side of the door will prove that. In simple terms:

If Cat 1 likes treats and Cat 2 likes treats that does not equal Cat 1 likes Cat 2!

Pairing a marker with a reinforcer is classical conditioning. Not depending on any behavior or change in habit.

Rewarding the cat with a treat for not engaging with the other cat is operant conditioning. The cats learn that if I don’t engage good things happen.

5. Cats like to be paid

Cats like to be paid. You don’t work for free and neither do they. Make sure you keep up the high pay for good work!

Their normal food won’t cut it here. Find the high value treat for each cat. Some like treats, other cats prefer a skin scratch. And don’t forget about the matching law. The more difficult the task the higher the pay.

6. Stop feeding cats close to each other 

The old myths of feeding cats closer and closer is all over the internet. Let me tell you it’s bad practice. Cats are solitary hunters and enjoy their meals alone. Don’t force them to eat next to each other or move their food bowls closer and closer. It will only create more tension. Even in households with cats that know each other well. Feed them in separate spots. And let them make a choice where they want to be fed.

7. Emotions Travel

Introductions are stressful. If you had a bad day give yourself some grace. If you are stressed it your cats will be stressed. And if your cats are stressed, they will not learn. Skip the training today. Give it another try tomorrow!

8. Artificial pheromones and peace drops

Many cat owners tell me they have Feliway plugged in and still don’t see any improvement. This doesn’t come as a surprise to me. Cat introductions are part art and part science. Artificial pheromones can at most be a tool in the toolbox. They won’t replace training and operant conditioning.

9. Operant Conditioning

Operant conditioning is a powerful tool to change a behavior or break a habit. It is a process and doesn’t happen overnight. Emotions play a big role as well. If the cats have been friends before and this is a case of redirected aggression it may be a shorter process than introducing two cats that never met before. But we never know, we are working with cats!

10. Olfaction is underrated

Humans underrate the importance of olfaction in the sequence of feline introductions.

Cats communicate via scent and pheromones. When you introduce two cats, make sure they don’t have any visual or physical contact at the beginning. Each cat gets to explore the other’s territory without ever laying eyes on each other. This is also an opportunity for key signposts—like cat trees, litter boxes, etc.—to take on a shared scent. A crucial component in the “getting to know you” process.

Observe your cat’s reaction to the scent of the other cat. We want the cats to be relaxed. We don’t want to see obsessed sniffing or hissing.

Please do not rub a cloth over the face and body of one cat and rub the same cloth over the other cat’s head and body.

Imagine somebody covers you with the scent of a person you don’t know or like J